soc_puppet: Words "Creative Process" in purple (Creative Process)
[personal profile] soc_puppet
With significant progress made on my two trades, I've begun work on the Ship in a Bottle.

By which I mean I've melted exactly nine crayons in the base of the bottle. See, I'm using a bottle like this - I'd go so far as to say it's exactly that type of bottle except it's more than three-and-a-quarter inches tall - and I wanted to have a base in the bottom of it to raise the characters up a bit. Gives 'em a bit more room, see. And while the crayons initially looked like they'd be the perfect solution, well. Completely drying left something of a sinkhole in the middle of wax, which isn't exactly a solid place for two polymer clay characters to be standing, let alone in close proximity to one another.

My next plans are either MORE WAX or more polymer clay, but if anyone has a suggestion for how I can get the wax to not do that sinkhole thing instead I'd love to hear it.

Off the Latest Things page

Date: 2013-02-06 06:03 am (UTC)
needled_ink_1975: A snarling cougar; colored pencil on paper (Default)
From: [personal profile] needled_ink_1975
Hi

Been putting ships in bottles and building models from scratch (carved hulls) since I was 6 which means I have 21 years of experience to offer you. Here's my bona fides, aka, pictorial evidence (for scale, that little bark is in jigger bottle).

To the nitty gritty.

Sorry to tell you this, but wax is not a good idea, because it's temp sensitive; always sets with air bubbles, which will be the start of cracks when it gets cold. Clay is okay but has some of the same problems as wax, as well as the worst: it takes an age to dry. Remeber that any moisture in your bottle contents will end up condensing on the glass. That leads to mold and other nasty things, like wood warp– straight masts and spars become wonky ones.

The best sea/ground material is silicone sealant. Comes in tubes, usually with a nozzle. It can be sculpted before it dries (make mighty waves... with nothin' but a little stick *grin*). You can 'plant' items in it—ship's hull— before it dries, and they won't come unstuck. If you have to paint it for color preference, just get the type of silicone that will take paint. The really awesome thing about silicone is that you can toss a bit of sand in when it's wet, and now you have a sandy beach (which is what you might want if you do a 'scene' with a ship out for hull-scraping/repairs).

If you can tell me what you want to do, I may be of more help. PM me if you'd prefer that.

Best,

–Nici

Re: Off the Latest Things page

Date: 2013-02-06 03:43 pm (UTC)
redsixwing: A red knotwork emblem. (Default)
From: [personal profile] redsixwing
I am so impressed. @_@ Nice work!

Date: 2013-02-06 03:45 pm (UTC)
redsixwing: A red knotwork emblem. (Default)
From: [personal profile] redsixwing
The bog-standard material used to make bases for model horses is epoxy putty. I like Apoxie Sculpt, but Smooth-On apparently has a new one that is even better. I haven't tried it since I still have some Apoxie.

Molding a little ball of it, then using a stick to squoosh it into shape in the bottom of the bottle, would probably work just fine - the only problem is, it is epoxy, and once it's dry, it's really truly permanent. I can imagine it being a real pain to clean up if one got it on the walls of the bottle.

It can be carved, sanded, painted, and smoothed when it's wet with rubbing alcohol, but it's generally wise to handle such products with gloves on, they can be pretty nasty.

Re: The Latest Things page totally rocks

Date: 2013-02-06 03:59 pm (UTC)
needled_ink_1975: A snarling cougar; colored pencil on paper (Default)
From: [personal profile] needled_ink_1975
I write fic, and I missed that pun...

...head!desk...

LMAO! This is gonna be awesome, and of course I'm in. I'm qualified. I once built a plastic model *tank* in a bottle. And painted it. And added blasted 'trees' and assorted shrubbery. It took over a hundred hours. That was for a bet, and yes, I was young and stupid. Your project is infinitely more sane, and not to mention, mature and clever :)

First things first, if you want to get that wax out of the bottle, you need to mix up a strong soap-and-water solution, in a big pot, bring it up to the simmer, and put the bottle in it. The soap should stop the softening wax from smearing the glass, but sometimes it doesn't. Take the bottle out every now and then (use oven mitts!) and use whatever fits down the neck to scrape wax out. When there's hardly any wax left, change the water (yes, add soap), bring to a simmer again, and keep swishing the bottle so that the melted remnants of wax wash out. One word of caution: if your water is hard (lots of minerals) it may permanently mark the glass. If you see any greyish residue forming, yank the bottle out and melt the wax via external heat; pour it out. Then settle in front of the TV with rags on the end of a stick, and rub, rub, rub till the remaining wax is all gone.

And tell me about everything you'd like to have in the bottle. If you can, take pics of what you have already. Even better, draw the kind of scene you want. If you don't have an image host, attach the pics in email (I'll send a PM).

Umm, and you'd better know that if you enjoy this bottling business even a little, you'll be tempted to enjoy it more the next time, and try variations on the theme (think: brandy snifter, with custom-cut glass sheet for a lid), ad infinitum; this is a lifetime hobby (it's also one that sells rather well, just btw).

*trundles off to send PM*

Re: Off the Latest Things page

Date: 2013-02-06 04:03 pm (UTC)
needled_ink_1975: A snarling cougar; colored pencil on paper (Default)
From: [personal profile] needled_ink_1975
Thanks, and your idea re: filling in the dent will be way easier than getting the wax out. There's just gotta be a bit of poking done to create 'anchor points' to keep the epoxy from separating.

–Nici

Re: The Latest Things page totally rocks

Date: 2013-02-06 04:05 pm (UTC)
needled_ink_1975: A snarling cougar; colored pencil on paper (Default)
From: [personal profile] needled_ink_1975
Scratch wax removal if you feel it's too much of a schlep. See redsixwing's comment, and my reply.

Date: 2013-02-06 08:29 pm (UTC)
redsixwing: A red knotwork emblem. (Default)
From: [personal profile] redsixwing
Apoxie Sculpt is online only, unfortunately. Amazon carries it. Aves (the manufacturer) may have it on their own website, too.

A hobby shop or craft store may have Green Stuff (another good 2-part putty) or something similar.

Hardware stores may have it, but I'm unfamiliar with brands they might carry. 2-part epoxies may also work, but are pourable instead of clay, and WILL stick anything they touch to anything else they touch, so they take some practice.

Re: The Latest Things page totally rocks

Date: 2013-02-06 08:51 pm (UTC)
needled_ink_1975: A snarling cougar; colored pencil on paper (Default)
From: [personal profile] needled_ink_1975
I clearly need to get out more. I mean, crochet? It's what my grannie did, and she ne'er did make anything like tha'. The octopus is too cute for words. The Pikachu (I checked to make sure I spelled that right. I am a Phillistine when it come to anime) was hard-done-by the light bulb. If you want to use a light bulb again, use a real one. Full instruction on how to take it apart. The most expensive thing you'll need is a diamond glass-cutter (like $5). They're dead easy to take apart and SuperGlue makes 'em even easier to put back together.

Okay, onto your current project. Let's start with the bottle and why it's being badly behaved. That bottom bit has wings, and as the wax cooled, it contracted, and pulled into the wings. I mentioned air bubbles: when you heat the existing wax, or pour in new hot wax, those bubbles collapse and make MOAR room in the wings. Hence very rude sinkhole. Now that I've seen the pics, I'm gonna advise you to start with a new bottle.

Reason: base material to that level needs to be all one substance. You're hoping to mount your figures sturdily on that base material. Two different substances, with two different consistencies is guaranteed to result in friction. It might be a small amount, hard to notice, but you'll end up with a gap between the malleable wax and the hard apoxie = not good.

Apoxie is a very good idea, given the shape of your bottle. It hardens at room temp without shrinking (ergo, no rude sinkholes!). Get some and roll it into little balls, and drop them one by one into the bottle. Use a chopstick to pummel them into submission. If you have trouble working around corners, get a cheap sundae spoon (long handle) and use pliers, a hammer, whatever, to bend the end of the handle in a way that'll help you out (yes, yes. You read me right: you must also become a smith. For it is written, crafting knoweth no boundaries, and likewise all crafters obey no laws... or something like that).

Once you've got those pesky corners filled in, the rest will be easy. BUT! don't fill your base all the way up to your preferred level. You need to plan where your figures are gonna be placed. Their feet are going to have pins which will be glued into the base. So you need to poke holes in that last layer of apoxie.

Fun idea? Apoxie comes in a wide range of colors, and there's a 12-color sample pack here. You could make the base up in layers of color if you'd like to.

Gonna leave it here for now. Zap any questions my way, any time.

–N

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